2020

All the 2020 posts have disappeared. 

So the quick update is that we think we are within days of getting it to roll under its own power!

Let's try and catch you up, the order may be a little out of actual sequence.

Top center coil of wire was for the O2 sensors.  The entire bundle has been removed all the way back to the old car ECM. Coolant tank in place, (center beige ball).  The main port will connect to the old radiator, new motor, new water pump, and new DMOC (Motor Controller).  The upper tank connection that can be seen will be connected to the old heater core in the old heater core in the cabin, a new pump, and new heater element.
The Nissan LEAF main battery disconnect box (orange and green at the center left) contains the main battery pack fuse, and the top green/orange part can be remove to disable the main battery power.
The windshield wiper fluid bottle is there but not filled yet, you can see the dash warning light below.
The gap just to the right of the windshield fluid is for the power steering pump.

(Looking down just behind the firewall up in the windshield wiper area where the old car ECM is.)
Right in the center you can see a bundle of wire connecting to the left connector on the old ECM.  Adjacent to the right of it we have been able to remove the entire second wire bundle as it controlled the old engine.  You can see in another photo below some of the error lights caused.  This bundle will be wrapped back up soon as we figure out how to fake the old codes.

Old car battery back in the lower right and reconnected. 
Most of the old car systems are back up and running including the ABS, and Airbags without change. 
The BMS (orange center) harnesses have been connected and the Nissan Leaf BMS is completely connected now (lower left in glass case under wire bundle). 
Top just to right of brake fluid reservoir are the relays that ran the old car emissions systems, they will now run the new computers and DC-DC converter. 
Hole just above the old main battery will be the location of the DC-DC converter (was the old engine intake airbox).
New recessed battery covers (white) in place, they will be clear before being sealed down (white plastic coating will be removed).

DMOC adapter (new computer, black, top left of glass case has been installed.  Connector pins came in yesterday to hook it to the car, when this is done the car should be able to move under its own power!

Under dash, looks like a regular car, counting left to right, 3 red wires, then a black wrapped blue wire, just above it is the VW fuel pump relay (black with white circuit diagram printed on it).  This will power the new systems relays.  IF the airbags deploy, it should automatically disable the new systems and disconnect the main battery power.

Note the Blu wire in the center right edge labeled "1".  It goes through fuse 28 (15A) and then will power the DMOC adapter.  Note in the center of the schematic the "Supplemental Restraint System" wire.  if triggered, it shuts the relay down.  (Thus not pumping fuel after a crash...)

Lights;
Parking brake pulled, therefore "BRAKE" light on.
No windshield wiper fluid in bottle yet...
No coolant in coolant tank yet....
EPC, O2 sensors removed, need to figure out how to fake the system.
Engine light, ooof, so many things light that up that do not exist any more, may be a piece of black tape...
Coolant temperature gauge works.
Fuel gauge will work again.

Rear suspension reinstalled with shocks.  Ride heights look real good.

Ongoing task, determine what size DC-DC converter we need.  We need 400V to 12V (13.5-13.8).  We will shortly put an amp meter on the VW side of the car and see how much the old system pulled max with fan, radio, headlights... BUT WE HAVE NOT FOUND ANY SOURCE FOR 400-13.X volts yet.  Help Please.